NZD11 – Milford Sound

Wanaka Briefly

After the exciting day of exploring the Franz Josef Glacier, we drove 4 hours to the town of Wanaka for the night. Wanaka was a beautiful little town next to the Wanaka Lake and surrounded by mountains. We arrived late the night before and woke up early the next day to snap a few quick photos of the town. But we didn’t have time to explore because we had a 5-hour drive to get to Milford Sound! The drive was long but the time flew by as we enjoyed the scenery and listened to our audiobook. We also stopped atop a hill on the way, but I can’t remember the significance of that place anymore…

Entering Fiordland National Park

The Fiordland is one of the wettest places in New Zealand, and we were not spared by the rain. As we drove into the Fiordland National Park, we were greeted by a cold drizzle and thick fog. Even though it was already late spring, there was still snow covering the landscape.

We stopped in the Visitor Center for lunch and waited for our boat tour to begin. We had to walk quite a ways from the Visitor Center to the docks. The walk took us past many info signs introducing the history of the place and the native plants. One I found most interesting told the legend of why there were so many sandflies there. I was definitely glad we were prepared with bug repellent this time. Even then, we had to constantly reapply. They were determined to hurry us along!

It was said that when the gods created Milford Sound, it was so beautiful that everyone who ever saw it would stay and never leave. To prevent people from staying forever, the gods put the pesky sandflies there to keep people moving.

Boat Tour of Milford Sound

We boarded our boat called the Real Journeys and began our tour. We learned that Milford Sound is actually a misnomer, it should actually be called the Milford Fjord (definitely a little harder to say).

• A Sound is a “V” shaped valley formed by a river.
• A Fjord is a “U” shaped valley formed by a glacier.

More rain, fog and mist… Many people would stay near the Fiordland National Park for days to catch a sunny day to visit the place. But because of the rain we got to see a different side of the fjords. We saw hundreds, if not thousands, of small waterfalls cascading down the valley faces. The fog gave the place a mystical quality that couldn’t be experienced on a sunny day. It really felt like we were in a scene from the Lord of the Rings at times. It’s beautiful in any weather.

The boat took us near a big waterfall and we were instantly soaked. It would have been enjoyable on a hot summer day, but it was cold and miserable. The captain did warn us if we didn’t want to get wet we should go inside. But we thought how bad can it be? Not recommended unless you have full-length rain ponchos or are prepared with a change of clothes. Our waterproof jackets didn’t do much for our pants. We stayed inside the boat for the rest of the ride to stay warm. We also encountered penguins and seals, so we were told, but we didn’t actually see them with our own eyes.

Te Anau

There were no places to stay within the Fiordlands so we had to drive back to Te Anau for the night. It was really in the middle of nowhere with absolutely zero cell phone reception and no internet. The nearest civilization was at least a 30min drive away. Since there was nothing to do at the hotel, we had a change of clothing and a quick dinner and went out to explore. There was a popular scenic spot called the Mirror Lake, where the water was so perfectly still and clear (on a windless and duckless day) it reflects the surroundings perfectly.

On a side note, at dinner, we met some fellow travelers from France. They were a young couple traveling with their 10-month old baby. They were, unfortunately, one of many stuck on the ferry from Wellington to Picton during and after the earthquake (Day 4 on our trip). They were on the boat for 12+ hours while the damages at the port in Picton were being assessed and repaired. Being stuck out on the water with the threat of a potential tsunami and a baby must have been terrifying! Scary ferry ride aside, they were very interested in the American political situation. We learned that they called the 2016 election day “D-Day” for “Donald Day”…

Road trips in New Zealand can be very long, be sure to stock up on snacks, music and a few good audiobooks to keep you happy on the road! My recommendations for snacks are New Zealand beef jerky (the one shown in the photo was indeed “outrageously tasty”), potato chips of flavors not found in the US, and fresh fruit!

C.