We wrapped up the last day of our Spanish interact in the small town of Cordoba to see the Mezquita. I had first learned about the Mezquita in an Art History class in university, and for some reason, it had stuck in my mind for all these years. Cordoba was much smaller and quieter than Seville. I guess a lot of tourists decide to skip this town on their grand tour of Spain.
La Mezquita
The Orange Tree Courtyard was a tranquil and pebbled space to relax and take in the surroundings before you enter the mystery and darkness of the Great Mosque.
The 81°F (27°C) heat vanished as soon as we stepped inside and it took a little bit of time for our eyes to adjust to the dim light. So many arches!! If you align yourself properly, all the columns perfectly line up in rows, topped by the postcard red and white double arches. At first glance, all the arches seemed identical, but upon closer look, they change slightly from the original sections to the newer expansions. The newer arches were painted instead of actual white and red bricks. And the arches varied in shape between Islamic horseshoe, Roman semi-circle, and Gothic pointed.
I think of the Mezquita as a Russian nesting doll of architectural styles. Layers of Roman, Islamic and Gothic styles wrapped around one another. Right in the middle of all those Islamic symbols and arches was a traditional Gothic Cathedral! Can someone say style ADHD? A few steps span centuries in architectural evolution. But then, it took over 1500 years for the structure to evolve into its present-day kaleidoscope of architectural elements.
Hey look, we found a gorgeous golden door outside the Mezquita!
The Roman Bridge
The original bridge at this location was built during the 1st century BC and has since then been rebuilt and added to many times. According to Wikipedia, most of the current bridge was rebuilt in the 8th century during the Moorish control. I didn’t know this when we visited, but the Roman Bridge was featured (with CGI help) in Season 5 of the Game of Thrones as the Long Bridge of Volantis.
On the Mezquita end of the bridge stands a very old and cool looking triumphal arch that was very different from the famous ones you would see in the major European cities. It’s much more classical looking and simpler, and really a rectangle than an arch!
The Jewish Quarter
It seems every old city in Europe has some sort of a Jewish Quarter. We walked through the narrow alley with flowers on the walls. We also found a historic leather workshop called Meryan selling beautiful, high-quality leather goods for very reasonable prices. Mom even found a couple of handbags as souvenirs! Behind the workshop was the most tranquil little courtyard with a babbling fountain.
The Food
We had lunch in Cordoba at a well-rated restaurant called Bodegas Mezquita and sampled some very interesting local flavors. I never thought salted fish and fruit would go together, but the Cod/Orange/Amond Salad was quite good. The Oxtail Rice was very flavorful and fulfilling, but I thought the Pork and Mushroom Rice was just okay. The Tajin Chicken was a signature dish and I strongly recommend it! So don’t skip trying the local fare when you’re in Cordoba!
Hasta la próxima, España!
C.