Living in Houston, there is a mythical season called autumn that we almost never get to experience. Usually, we jump from the hot and humid summer to the rainy cold winter without much of a transition. Imagine how delighted I was to wake up to such a crisp and clear autumn day. Starting off the day with a stroll along the Tiber River had almost become as enjoyable as a cappuccino. It also helped that we were walking towards a new day full of amazing discoveries.
Campo di Fiori Market
We made a quick stop at the Campo di Fiori morning market. Despite knowing the market is more of a tourist attraction now than a local market, I still found it colorful and lively, and picked up some fresh figs for a snack. It was a good thing we were on our way somewhere or I would have bought all the honey, cheeses, Moka pots, and pasta.
Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli
A Roman bath house turned basilica, Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli incorporated the original Roman bath structure without covering it up. It also has one of the most unusual doors I have seen on a church — flat bronze doors with emerging human figures. It was as if they were real people cast into the doors themselves.
Originally built around A.D. 300, it was the Lifetime Fitness of its time with numerous baths, a gym, and a spa. It could accommodate up to 3000 people at a time! What the ancient Roman powers wouldn’t do to keep the masses preoccupied. Running diagonally across the nave is a meridian that shows the time of the day and the time of the year by the angle of sunlight through a hole in the wall. The astrological signs are also shown along the line. Between the lack of knowledge in Latin and the complexity of the meridian system, I was at a total loss for how to read this thing.
Museo Nazionale Romano
Out of the three classical art media – painting, sculpture, and architecture – I have always been most drawn to sculptures. The ability of the masters to give such life, softness, and weightlessness to cold and unyielding stone fills me with awe. So naturally, the Museo Nazionale Romano at the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme was a must-see for me, as it holds the greatest collection of Roman (and some original Greek) sculptures anywhere.
The museum is located in a palace with a square courtyard. The exhibits are housed in rooms around the central courtyard. Along the hallway, between the rooms, are busts of noble Romans who held power and status all those years ago. From marble to bronze, I got to study each sculpture to my heart’s content. But I know not everybody gets as excited about statues as I do and want to talk about them for days, so I’ll just skip the words and leave some of my favorites below in photos.
Santa Maria della Vittoria
I have to be honest, after visiting a few, all the churches started to blur together. Santa Maria della Vittoria is one of those over the top Baroque churches. There is so much on every surface that it’s hard to know where to look.
As impressive as the church is, this particular one is most famous for the Bernini masterpiece, St. Teresa in Ecstasy. This was the multimedia of the 17th century with the use of natural light, bronze sunbeams, a golden arrow, and highly polished marble. It’s like the scene can come alive at any moment.
Capuchin Crypt
The Capuchin Crypt, with its macabre decorations with human bones, was on Ross’s list but I opted out. It gave me a chance to catch up on my journal as I waited outside.
The Spanish Steps
We made our way down to the Spanish Steps close to sunset and joined the mob scene. A bit cliche, but when in Rome, right? Too bad we weren’t there with our significant others…
Piazza Navona
It was again night time as we headed back to our base. On the way, we walked through the romantic Piazza Navona. Rome has to be seen in different lighting, and Piazza Navona is particularly beautiful at night. Sadly the Four River Fountain was under maintenance so the river gods looked a little dehydrated.
Another satisfyingly exhausting day. And tomorrow… the Vatican!
C.