Our week in Rome was nearing the end, but we had yet to visit the most iconic sights of Rome.
Piazza Navona
Piazza Navona in daylight had a different feel from the romantic ambiance at night. You really do need to visit it in different lighting. I hardly paid any attention to the buildings around this ancient chariot race track on our previous walk through at night.
Pantheon
But we were just walking by on our way to the Pantheon. Even though we didn’t arrive as early as we hoped, at least there was no line yet at 10:30 in the morning.
As soon I walked into the space, my engineering mind began to ask all sorts of questions. How were they able to build such a geometrically perfect structure without modern day construction technology? How were they able to determine the center of the 43.3m diameter sphere that’s so perfectly accommodated inside the dome? How many marble quarries did they empty to build Rome? I could probably ponder all day in here, watching the sunlight move across the walls.
I always wondered how the rainwater from the open oculus drained from the building. Apparently, it was through these inconspicuous holes in the marble floor.
RIP, Master Raphael. There are few resting places as distinguished as the temple of all gods.
Trevi Fountain
The most famous fountain in Rome was naturally another mob scene at noon. We unknowingly broke the rule and walked over some platforms in order to get around the crowds. The fountain police blew their whistle at us… As cliche as it was, we threw our coins into the water to ensure our return to Rome one day.
The Borghese Gallery
It was a long walk to reach the Borghese Gallery, but it took us through the lovely Villa Borghese Gardens. The garden/park is situated on one of the hills with a nice view over the city. Quiet, tree-covered walkways dotted with park benches and small cafes, it was a nice break from the crowds we had to push through to get here.
The Borghese Gallery was one of the few museums in Rome that required a reservation to visit because they only allow 360 visitors to enter every two hours. I had booked the visit long before arriving in Rome because it houses a number of the most impressive and famous sculptures.
The rich and the powerful are certainly willing to spend money on their mansions, no matter the century they live in. Original ancient Roman tiles covered the floor. Massive frescoes decorated the ceilings. Even the horse above the door was an Ancient Greek original.
The collection included many paintings by famous artists throughout the centuries, but it was really the marble beauties that made the Borghese Gallery a must see. I admired them from every angle, in every detail, and for every minute I was allowed inside the gallery.
Pauline Bonaparte as Venus Victrix – Canova
Pauline was the famous Napoleon’s sister who married into the Borghese family. She posed nude for this sculpture, which was a big scandal at the time and the sculpture was not allowed for public viewing. Doesn’t she take your breath away? The suppleness of her skin, the plushness of the cushions, the soft folds of her robe, and even the tassels on the bed skirt looked so realistic!
Apollo and Daphne – Bernini
This famous piece depicts the exact moment that Daphne morphs into a tree to escape Apollo’s pursuit. As if in mid-jump, from the sprouting fingertips to the rooting toes, there is so much of that signature movement and airiness of the Baroque style, perfected by Bernini. The sculpture group was staged in the middle of the room so that visitors can view it from 360 degrees. There was no mistaking who is the star of this room, even the ceiling depicted the same story. Knowing Bernini was only in his mid-twenties when he created this masterpiece made me feel so unworthy…
David – Bernini
Where Michelangelo’s Renaissance David in Florence captures the calm before the action, Bernini’s Baroque David is again captured in the moment of action. The sling is drawn back to the fullest and the stone will be cast at any moment. The classical ideal of the male body is shown in all of its musculatures. It’s also a selfie of Bernini because he used his own face for David.
The Rape of Proserpina – Bernini
Really though, why are there so much abduction and rape in classical art? I ask this question every time I’m in an art museum. Why was the theme of forced love so popular in ancient mythology? But that doesn’t change how much I enjoyed looking at this piece. Just look at how Pluto’s fingers sink into Proserpina’s back and thigh! Sometimes it’s easy to forget that these figures are made of stone. If you look closely, you can even see the tears falling down the face of Proserpina.
After using up every last minute allowed in the gallery, I left still feeling like I could spend another two hours in there. The Borghese Gallery, while much smaller in size, definitely held its own to the Vatican Museums and the numerous other art collections in Rome. It might even be my favorite museum in Rome! What I wouldn’t give to be a restorer here, talk about a girl’s dream job.
It was a long day of walking. After a refreshing Aperol-Spritz, it was time for Fede to head home. We hugged and waved, like so many times before, and said goodbye with smiles. It’s not goodbye, it’s until next time.
To cheer me up, we went to the allegedly oldest ice cream shop in Rome, Gelateria Giolitti. You had to buy a ticket at the door, then stand in the queue to get your scoops. The gelato was indeed worthy of its fame and wait. A must try when in Rome!
